Monday, June 8, 2009

Doing the Weave

So far, I have 36 tomato plants in one really long bed. Some of the varieties are:
  • Cherokee Purple
  • Sungold Cherry
  • German Johnson
  • Celebrity
  • Roma
  • Better Boy
Thirty-six plants are quite a few tomatoes. Rather than get caught up with staking each one and trying to keep up with tying the plants (and inevitably falling behind quickly in that task each year), or spending too much money on flimsy round wire cages that are useless once the plants grow higher than three feet, or the welds break, I am on the second year of a system used by commercial growers. (I think that is one really long sentence I just typed!)

This system is called the Florida weave. I've also seen mention of the German weave. Maybe so, since Germans are known to be so efficient at things (and I'm of German descent, so occasionally it rubs off). Basically, five to six foot long wooden stakes or metal posts are driven into the ground, spaced so two plants are between each stake. My stakes are five feet long. The stakes at the end of each row should be at an angle, away from the plants. Think of the letter "v" for the direction the end stakes will face. You'll also need a spool of heavy jute twine.

So, to get started, drive the stakes into the ground with a mallet. If using wood stakes, wear heavy gloves, so you don't get splinters. This is strenuous work. Enlist a good helper if you aren't too strong yet. Last year, I had my hubby do this work for me. I was able to do it myself this time around, thanks to all the CrossFit workouts I have been doing since January. Still, it's hard work, but you want the stakes to be firmly anchored into the ground. Your plants should be spaced anywhere from 18 to 36 inches apart, depending on soil quality. I have pretty good soil, thanks to all the manure from my neighbors' horses, so I space my tomato plants 18 inches apart. The rows are about three feet apart. I have found it's best to plant the tomatoes first, and then drive the stakes and weave the twine. Also, mulch heavily while the plants are small, and this will help keep the soil moist and cool as the weather heats up (and heat up it does, here in central NC).

After getting the stakes in, tie a firm knot about six inches from the ground at the end of the row, on the outward angled stake. I also like to wrap the twine around the stake a few times. Then, unravel the twine and run it to the next stake, holding the twine taught,and wrap it around the next stake firmly. Continue to the subsequent stakes in the row, until you get to the end. Then, wrap the twine around the end stake, and come back down the row. When you get back to the starting point, wrap again, and firmly tie off the twine and cut. Repeat up the stakes, about every six inches, until you get to the top of the stakes.

As the plants grow, all you need to do is visit the plants every couple days and tuck the growing tip between the two lines of the twine. It will only take a few minutes. This is a fast, easy, and inexpensive way to support your tomatoes. At the end of the season, remove the stakes from the ground, and store them in a dry place. Then, you can reuse them next year. The twine can go in the compost bin as a source of carbon.

Different varieties of tomato plants in various stages of growth.

Close-up of the method at work.

2 comments:

Chile said...

Looks great, and your tomato plants look so lush.

Crossfit Gal said...

Thanks, I took the pics after a few days of steady rain. Those were some happy tomaters! It has been in the 90s the past few days, so we'll have to break out the rain barrel water to give them a drink if it does not rain by the weekend.